In Search of a Decent Coffee in Vancouver

Most of Canada takes great joy in pigeonholing us Vancouverites as rain-saturated, fleece-wearing, overcaffeinated, tree-hugging hippies. While a lot of that is vestigial legacy from the free-loving 60s, they might be on to something with the over-caffeinated part. It is slightly ironic that a city known worldwide for its laidback ways is chockablock with cafes and coffee houses.

But is it a case of quantity over quality? I zipped up my MEC vest, embraced my juniper bush and trudged out into rainy afternoon to find out the best coffee house in Vancouver.

Howard Schultz has built his java empire on a foundation of warm interiors, canned music and surly service from condescending and over-pierced kids. He forgot to include good coffee. With a flavour best described as "burnt mop water", the Starbuck blend is bland, harsh, tart, sour and tepid all at once. The generic interior was a study in corporate focus-group cool, with muted hues of brown and beige matching perfectly with the day old spills and crumbs that covered most surfaces. Mix in some James Blunt and the constant din of coffee orders more complex than driving directions in Richmond and you've got one of the least enjoyable coffee drinking experiences possible.

Local Blend: The Starbucks location in Waterfront Station was the first franchise in Canada.

Undaunted and $3.00 poorer, I ventured next to Caffe Artigiano (763 Hornby St.). To most people, this small chain is most famous for their rich, delicious lattes and cappuccinos lovingly adorned with art infused in the crema. But for me, it is the place that always has incredibly long line-ups and really expensive coffees.

Granted, the drink was delicious and thick enough to double as a meal replacement, but the hectic pace and fast-food atmosphere necessitated by the crazy queue made me feel cheap, used and underappreciated. Well, more so than usual.

Local Blend: Caffe Artigiano is the home of the Canadian Barista Champion 2003 - 2006.

Shaken, and slightly shaking from the overdose of caffeine, I quickly stepped into Benny's Bagels (2505 Broadway). Funky wooden tables, an inviting fireplace with couches - where were Ross and Rachel?!

They may have been scared off by the musky scent of dirty dishcloth that subtly hung in the air. Or it may have been the glacial pace of the service. Luckily, the tall, hot beverage was flavourful enough to overcome any shortcomings. Even if it wasn't, they sell really cheap pints of beer, and that pretty much makes up for anything!

Local Blend: A serious kitchen fire on Superbowl Sunday nearly took out this long-time Kits meeting place. But it's back and, well, pretty much the same.

My caffeine-induced stupor led me next to JJ Bean (3010 Main St.) Coffee houses are a lot like indie bands - they're considered good until they get big. But somehow this Vancouver-based mini-chain has maintained its indie-cred while expanding. After visiting their Frank Gehry-inspired Main St. location, it is obvious how they've done that; they blend really good coffee. Robust, strong and served by genuinely nice people.

The shop itself was a stunning example of modern architecture that jump-started the gentrification of the area around it. Inside, it was warm, inviting and completely free of James Blunt. I am sure even the most hardened Italian coffee snob would approve.

Local Blend: JJ Bean supplies coffee to over 300 cafes and restaurants around the Lower Mainland.